A bunch of years ago, my Dad took me on a driving tour of the West, traveling through South Dakota, Wyoming, and Utah. He effectively planted a seed that has rooted a deep and abounding love for the natural world. (It was actually a seedling from childhood, but it erupted full grown on the aforementioned trip).
My brother turned 50 this year and I wanted to take him on an epic hiking tour of some of my favorites. Just when you sadly say, "I'll never pass this way again," here I go on my fourth venture through southern Utah and northern Arizona.
We started with the West Rim of
Zion National Park. There are established campsites on this rim it behooves you to get a permit early. We were at site 8, which was set back about 100 yards from the rim of Imlay Canyon. We sat on the edge with our feet dangling a bit. In my opinion site 6 is primo and 5 was picturesque. We skipped the conga line to Angel's Landing on our descent. I've done it before and it is way cool, but it's become so popular that I'd rather spend my energies elsewhere.
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| Our tents at site 8. Through the brush to the left lies Imlay Canyon with folds and ledges as far as the eye can see. |
The views coming down West Rim Trail are expansive, giving you a different appreciation for the canyon than that of the crowded corridor visited by the masses. The descent was crazy with switchbacks, drop-offs and ledges. If you're not too good with heights, it could prove difficult.
We stayed at
Zion Canyon Campground for a night before heading to Bryce Canyon. Highly recommend this location for car camping, right next to the park's entrance and our site was beside gorgeous orange canyon walls along the Virgin River. We hiked Peek-A-Boo trail in Bryce, popular but still worth the views of the hoo doos and the perspective of the canyon floor. Sense Eric hadn't seen much of Bryce before we took the typical driving tour with the obligatory pull outs.
We headed down to Escalante next. Playing around in the Devil's Garden and then heading down to explore some slot canyons. Spooky Gulch and Peek-A-Boo Gulch are popular day trips. I have to admit following cairns down a wash gives me a moment of pause. I'm an established trail kind of girl. But the slots were interesting. We didn't really find the entrance to Peek-A-Boo, it was playing a mean game of kind and seek. Spooky Gulch is very tight in spots and you have to climb up some ledges to keep going. It's hot and exposed getting in and out of the gulches. I was a bit shocked to see tiny babies being carried in and families with little kids doing the scramble in and out. I wonder what the American Academy of Pediatrics opinion would be on this.
Wanting to get near water once again, Eric decided we'd do the Box in north Escalante near Death Hollow. Some great monikers these places sport. This is relaxed hiking at it's best, meandering along Pine Creek, crossing it so many times in a few miles that I lost count. The canyon walls are majestic and change geological colors as you proceed. I highly recommend backpacking here for a easy to moderate overnight.
The hiking portion of our trip ended with Sedona. The business section of town we drove through was over-the-top touristy. For our one and only day hike in the area, I chose Devil's Bridge. The parking lot was jammed. We chose the long route around which was much less crowded than the gravel road short approach. We got 360 views of the red rocks. This photo was quickly snapped between visitors tromping out to the center for their Instagram claim to fame. Not pictured are about 20 people behind and beside me. We had lunch and snapped our bridge walk photos then headed down. Again, hot and exposed. Stay protected. Sedona has an abundance of gorgeous landscape but you'd have to work to find your wilderness. Honorable mention; the drive down rte. 89A through Oak Creek Canyon is beyond crazy. An engineering marvel not to be attempted by those easily car sick.
Take Aways
Zion is a crowded park but you can find wilderness on either Rims. I've hiked the East Rim also and was treated to magnificent views of the canyon from the literal edge, actually looking down on Angel's Landing. While picking up my reserved permit for the West Rim, I found out that the East Rim is less visited by backpackers and offers dispersed camping.
We used
Zion Guru for our West Rim shuttle, and though not cheap, we found it worth it. In talking with our host/driver she hit highlights of a bunch of area wilderness ideas you don't find in the guidebooks. There's so much to do in the area, state parks, forests, natural areas. I'd give them a shout and talk to someone about an itinerary that excludes the crowds but cashes in on the environment. You would pay for the advice but it could lead you to your happy place and you can't put a price on that.
I need to return and do Coyote Gulch in Escalante. Look up some blogs, they're amazing.
Rent a descent size vehicle so you can 'throw and go' out of camp. Eric and I hit several sunrises in that fashion. Recover your gear later.
Sedona, while red rock gorgeous, might not be the hiking/backpacking experience I'm looking for.
When in doubt, ask at the Ranger's Desk. They know where to go for wilderness and exertion, my two main objectives.
Bright Spots
Traveling with my Bro. We're two of a kind when it comes to this stuff, neither one fussy about much of anything, except where to find that post-hike burger.
Not micro-planning. Going where we felt lead and enjoying every minute of it.
Taking photos of our natural world and each other in it instead of a photostream full of selfies.
